Gallery 98

ART EPHEMERA 1960s – 1990s

Gallery 98 is for collectors and researchers alike. We specialize in announcement cards, posters, publications and other art ephemera from the 1960s - 1990s. For all inquiries: 98bowery@gmail.com

Bill Cunningham & DETAILS Magazine, 1982-90
Street Photography and Fashion

by Marc H Miller

For readers of the weekend style section of the New York Times, Bill Cunningham (1929 – 2016) was a perennial presence in two of the paper’s most popular weekly picture columns: On the Street, a sharp-eyed compendium of the fashion he encountered on the street; and Evening Hours, a compilation of portraits of society figures at New York philanthropic fund-raisers. Although people admired his columns, his skill as a photographer was largely lost by his insistence on being called a fashion historian, and by his preference for dense, multi-picture layouts that obscured the photography in order to highlight fashion trends.

But the round of attention following his death has elevated Cunningham, and he is now regarded as a top-tier street and event photographer. Because of his puritan work ethic and ability to fade into the background Cunningham was able to amass a vast number of pictures over a forty-year period (1970s through 2015). Mostly centered on fashion and shot spontaneously, the photographs capture stylishly dressed people in public spaces and at events. They not only provide an unmatched history of fashion but also project an upbeat feeling rooted in Cunningham’s love of people and fashion.

Gallery 98 has recently acquired a large selection of Details magazines, Cunningham’s main journalistic outlet from 1982 to 1990.  Founded by Annie Flanders, Details began as an independent downtown fashion and life-style magazine that quickly expanded nationally, leading to its sale to Condé Nast in 1990.  Cunningham was part of the original Details team that started with the first issue in October 1982, and eventually came to dominate issues in the late 1980s with one-hundred-plus page spreads covering fashion shows in New York, London, and Paris. The entire history of fashion in the 1980s is contained within the pages of Details. The magazines also document Cunningham’s rise to artistic maturity prior to his move to The New York Times as a full-time staff member in 1994.

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DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 1 No. 2, 1982, Bill Cunningham’s “Wedding Fantasies”

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DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 1 No. 5, 1982, Bill Cunningham’s “Paris Collections”

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DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 1 No. 6, 1982, Bill Cunningham’s “The New York Collections”

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DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 1 No. 7, 1982, Bill Cunningham’s “Ahead of the Game”

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DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 2 No. 1, 1983, Bill Cunningham’s “Fall Collections: New York” and “Plus Paris”

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Details Magazine, Vol. 4 No. 3, 1985/09 (September), Bill Cunningham

DETAILS Magazine, Advertising Counter Card, 1985/09 (Sept), photo by Bill Cunningham

Details Magazine, Vol. 4 No. 8, 1986/03 (March), Bill Cunningham

DETAILS Magazine, Advertising Counter Card, 1986/03 (March), photo by Bill Cunningham

DETAILS Magazine, Advertising Counter Card, 1986/09 (Sept), photo by Bill Cunningham

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 5 No. 8, 1987/03 (March), Bill Cunningham’s 40-Page Spring Collections Special

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 6 No. 3, 1987/09 (September), Bill Cunningham’s 40-Page Fall Fashion Reviews

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 6 No. 4, 1987/10 (October), Bill Cunningham’s 16-Page Retour a la Couture

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 6 No. 8, 1988/03 (March), Bill Cunningham’s 42-Page Spring Collections Special

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 7 No. 4, 1988/09 (September), Bill Cunningham’s 99 Pages of Fall Fashion

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 7 No. 6, 1988/11 (November), Bill Cunningham’s 17-Page Couturist Class

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 7 No. 9, 1989/03 (March), Bill Cunningham’s 111-Page Spring Collection Special

DETAILS Magazine, Advertising Bus-Stop Poster, 1989/03 (March), photo by Bill Cunningham

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 8 No. 3, 1989/09 (September), Bill Cunningham’s 101-Page Fall Fashion Special

DETAILS Magazine, Vol. 8 No. 8, 1990/03 (March), Bill Cunningham’s 123-Page International Fashion Reviews